Before starting any kind of work, it is important to know the pH
of your soil. This is a measure of soil acidity/alkalinity. A proper
pH for lawns is 6.0 to 7.2. You can ask us what type of products
we recommend to amend your pH. Seed selection is crucial in getting
a dark green, durable lawn that will last. Be sure to ask questions
when buying your seed. What seed mix does well in: Full sun/shade,
high traffic areas, high/low maintenance areas, a showplace lawn?
A quality seed we recommend is Execu-Turf. There are eight mixes
or blends in the Execu-Turf line to fit most situations. Execu-Turf
can be found at independent garden centers and landscapers.
1. Prepare a good seed bed by tilling six to eight inches deep
with a rototiller. Firm and level the soil well after tilling.
2. Apply a quality starter fertilizer, such as Proven New Lawn Starter.
Work into the soil at a depth of three to four inches.
3. After all materials have been worked in, firm soil by rolling
to assure no soft spots remain that would settle later on.
4. Rake the area into a crumbly state with about an inch of loose
soil at the surface.
5. Apply a quality seed mix at recommended rates with a drop spreader
or broadcast spreader. It is best to use a criss-cross pattern to
assure complete coverage.
6. LIGHTLY rake the seed into the soil (1/8-1/4"). Seed needs
to be bedded in the soil to germinate quickly and uniformly.
7. Apply a mulch, such a straw or erosion netting, on a sloping
area to hold seed and soil in place during heavy rain or watering.
Renovating Turf: If Using an aerator
1. Set the depth of the aerator at about two inches.
2. Begin at the longest side of the lawn and make runs back and
forth, overlapping a minor amount.
3. When the entire lawn is finished the first time, begin a second
pass at a 30 - 40 degree angle. Several trips can be beneficial.
4. Set the seeding rate for the type of seed you have and spread
with a broadcast spreader.
5. Fertilize and lime according to soil tests. Using a quality starter
fertilizer
such as Proven New Lawn Starter. Spread the materials onto the existing
turfwith a broadcast spreader.
If Using a Slice Seeder:
1. Set the depth of the slicer seeder at about ¼"
2. Set the seeding rate for the type of seed you have.
3. Begin at the longest side of the lawn and make runs back and
forth overlapping a minor amount.
4. When the entire lawn is finished the first time, begin a second
pass at a 30 - 40 angle.
5. LIGHTLY rake the thatch off of the lawn, and remove it.
6. Fertilize and lime according to soil tests. Using a quality starter
fertilizer such as Proven New Lawn Starter.
7. Spread the fertilizer onto the existing turf with a broadcast
spreader. (Remember not to go too heavy)
8. Apply a mulch, such as straw or erosion netting, on areas that
are void of existing turf.
When Will I See New Growth:
Air temperature, ground temperature, available moisture and sunlight
affect the germination times of seeds. Most Ryegrass and Fescue
will germinate in 7 - 14 days. Kentucky Bluegrass germinates in
about 20 - 25 days.
When Can I Mow:
Seeded areas with existing grass can be mowed as needed. Do not
let clippings accumulate on the lawn, as smothering of new seedlings
may occur. New lawns should be mowed as the lawn gets to normal
mowing height. For Ryegrass, Bluegrass and Fescue, this should be
in the 2.5" to 3" range.
What About Weeds:
New seedlings can be harmed by weed controls. It is normal for some
weeds to grow whenever the soil has been disturbed. Once the grass
is strong enough to handle traffic (after 2-3 mowings), you can
kill broadleaf weeds. Crabgrass should be eliminated the second
year of lawn with a pre-emergent control. Some crabgrass controls
can be used while seeding, however, they are expensive and may still
prune the roots. Post-emergent control may be attempted the first
year, but only when the lawn is established and can handle traffic
on a regular basis.
